![]() Swing-up legs are commonplace but, in this tripod, they’re specially shaped to wrap around the centre column, cutting out wasted space to enable a sleeker build. In both cases, the same overall design is highly innovative. It’s pretty pricey, but the carbon fibre version of the kit is considerably more expensive, making it unaffordable for many. We’re big fans of the highly capable but expensive aluminium edition of the Peak Design Travel Tripod. Novel head design takes a bit of getting used to This naturally enables a greater maximum operating height. Some go further still, with a two-section extending centre column. To give them a useful operating height, despite their small carrying size, most travel tripods feature four or even five telescopic sections per leg. Indeed, many of the best travel tripods shrink down to about 30-40cm, making them small enough to fit inside a camera bag or rucksack, rather than needing to be tethered to the outside. This reduces the overall carrying length by up to 10cm or 4 inches. The idea is that you first extend the centre column, then swing the legs up, so that the tripod’s feet end up encircling the head. Thankfully, the best travel tripods stand firm in the middle ground, giving you the best of both worlds.Ī neat trick shared by the vast majority of current tripods is that the legs swing fully upwards for stowage. At the other end of the scale, flimsy little tripods whose loftiest aspirations are only about waist height are underachievers and tend to wobble around in the slightest breeze. Trouble is, they’re heavy and unwieldy, so you tend to leave them at home, where they’re no use whatsoever. #CAMERA TRIPOD SLIK ANDROID#There is a chance that more modern cameras with IBIS may also have this issue where they are smart enough to avoid drift during an exposure, but will not use the same OIS or sensor position between exposures, thus causing alignment issues with bracketing, when remotely controlling the camera (I personally use the qDslrDashboard android app to control a camera over WiFi when doing bracketing, exposure stacking, as well as multi exposure interior shots where I will walk around the room with a flash and ultimately get a flash and ambient blend.There’s no beating a hefty, solid tripod to give your photography a firm footing. PS one interesting thing is that on even many budget lenses, for example, the entry level AF-P lenses will actually avoid drifting while on a tripod, though multiple separate images during an exposure may end up with slightly different OIS element positions, It has happened with some older Tamron lens, though they ended up fixing many of those issues with firmware updates.įor modern cameras with IBIS, they have largely become capable of working well on tripods by avoiding drift. For example, on some lenses, if the camera is on a tripod, the OIS element may drift slightly, and that gets visible on long exposure. What do you think the outcome will be with Robin Wong's tests? What have your experiences been? Let me know your thoughts below.įor whether IS needs to be on or off, it depends on the lens firmware. ![]() ![]() I must be honest and say that I've sometimes forgotten to turn off image stabilization on my Canon EOS R5, but have never really noticed any discernible differences. In order to find out, he takes you out into the night in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, and does some long exposure photography with image stabilization on and then repeats the process with the image stabilization off. He points out that it has always been assumed that best practice was to turn off image stabilization when using a tripod, but now's he's not so sure. That said, if you're using a tripod, should you actually use image stabilization?Īnd that brings us to this great video by Robin Wong, in which he addresses that very issue. But now with the development of image stabilization (in your camera or your lens), those techniques have become somewhat unnecessary. I also had all sorts of positions I would put my knees and elbows into to ensure that I had multiple points touching a surface, be it the ground or a wall. ![]() One method I used was always inhaling slowly and deeply, then exhaling slowly and deeply, then pressing the shutter on the pause of breath after my exhale. It might seem rather antiquated and quaint considering how far camera technology has evolved in recent times, but I used to pride myself on how still I could handhold a camera. ![]()
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